Haneri (neckpiece on a kimono) (半衿)
The "haneri" is a detachable neckpieces for kimonos that is sewed on a juban, underwear for wafuku (Japanese traditional clothes).
This names derives from the fact that its length is about half of the actual collar.
Although its main purpose is to shield juban from dusts, sebum and/or hairdressings (when it gets dirty, you can take it off, wash it out and use it over and over), it is regarded as an important point in dressing since it is put on at the site near the face. Some products with embroidery decorations cost hundreds of thousands yen (several thousand dollars).
Taking it as a part of underwear, haneri is an exceptional one among various ethnic costumes in the world, because a part of haneri falls into someone's eye when it is formally dressed.
Materials
Generally speaking, crepe is used for casual wafuku, while shioze habutae (a, thick silk fabric) is used for a wide variety of wafuku, ranging from casual kimonos to formal kimonos. Cotton, which is strong and stain-resistant, is often mixed with other fabric in the case of products for casual kimono. Also, products of polyester have been on the market lately.
Before the World War II, iroeri (colored haneri) or shishueri (haneri with embroidery) were popular as women's haneri; however, shiroeri (white haneri) became popular after the Regulation of the Production and Sale of Luxury Items issued in 1940. Iroeri revived to a certain extent after the war, but shiroeri gradually became dominant because wafuku got less popular as everyday clothes in the high economic growth period. Other than shiroeri, there are almost countless numbers of color for haneri, such as red, yellow, blue, green, pink and purple, according to the colors of wafuku.
However, since red collars are regarded for young girls in principle, it is better for married women to avoid those of red or similar colors.
Other than plain haneri, those decorated with embroidery or even with embroidery and beads are available. Designs should be chosen, in principle, according to season.
Black haneri, which is favored by nifty men, are the main stream products for men, followed by those of refined and soft color such as light blue, grey, brown, deep green or indigo.
While solid white products are popular for formal dress such as kuromontsuki (black haori with family crest) at present, products of light blue or light grey were mainly used for men's formal dress until the early Showa period.
Erigae (promoted to a full-fledged geisha)
Currently, this term is used only in karyukai (world of the geisha).
It means the practice of changing red haneri of young girls for white haneri of adult women, and in karyukai, it refers the promotion from hinakko, such as hangyoku (child geisha) and maiko (apprentice geisha), to geigi (geisha).
From that time, hangyoku is allowed to receive gyokudai (fee for geisha) at the full rate, and she changes her hairstyle etc. Hinakko before erigae is also called "akaeri" (red collar).